In the morning, between 8:30 and 9:30, 3 huge old Nile turtles come up to the dock on the river to be fed. They love cheese and hard-boiled eggs. They talk to us. A garglely throaty hiss. All around them schools of tiny fish and little fish and medium-size fish dart this way and that,
and across from the dock ancient Pontic tombs carved into the cliff-side loom in mystery.
As he throws pieces of egg to the turtles, my friend Ferhan wonders aloud as to why the Kings were buried there. He says that maybe when he's ready to die he'll climb into one of the tombs and rest with the kings.
Little boats slide down the river on their way to the sea.
The public boat to Iztuzu beach stops at the dock for me. I climb in, take a seat at the front. The boat slips through channels of high grasses. Ciffs with Pontic tombs to our right, lilac-misted mountains to our left.
Tonight, back in the little town by the river, I'll eat fresh mussels stuffed by the lady across the road and watch the sunset on the river.